Hidden Down South

The sun shines clean and bright, the breeze blows softly and the wheels of the bike produce a hypnotic sound, almost like white noise. The ground is smooth and flat; sometimes sand, sometimes even salt. It has been a while since our protagonist last spoke to anyone. It is not too hot, yet the southern sun always warms when the sky is clear. Ibai pedals effortlessly, and his mind drifts. He thinks about how he got here. His thoughts travel back to Granada, to the high plateaus, to the arid silhouettes that precede the tropical coast, with Mulhacen and Veleta peaks forever standing watch from above. There, within a single province, Ibai learned some time ago that Andalusia cannot be reduced to a single landscape.

He has been dreaming of this journey for a long time, willing to discover what this vast autonomous community held within. When the adventure finally began to take shape, he was certain the preparation had to be minimal; this time, he would draw no route. To trace a line on the map would have meant accepting imposed paths, the recommendations of others, inherited prejudices. Instead, he chose to let the itinerary be dictated by those he met along the way. To ask. To listen. To learn.

The journey begins in Huelva. Open marshlands, air moisture and surprising landscapes, relatively quiet at this time of year. Ibai speaks to everyone he meets, asking which way to go and, specially, learning how to go. The directions are never merely a heading; they always include a warning about the wind, a hidden water source or a stretch of loose sand. Traveling with no maps makes conversation inevitable.

This Terra is perfect for long distances: comfortable across all terrains, fast when he wants to have fun and equipped with enough mounting points to carry everything he needs. He is glad to have picked this bike for this journey into the unknown. He reaches the same conclusion about his choice of drivetrain: opting for the double chainring of the Shimano GRX RX820 was the right decision. When you are alone for so many miles, the peace of mind that comes from knowing nothing will fail is priceless, and not many things are as reliable as a Shimano groupset. Finally, the wheels: after so many years riding on dirt, Ibai speaks with authority when he says these OQUO RP50 LTD wheels are the best he has used to date.

After many solitary miles and just as many reflections, two figures appear on the horizon, with imposing Seville as their backdrop. It’s Carlos and Alfonso, founders of Meraki, a collective that truly understands the spirit of gravel. Meraki was born from the need to tell the story of Andalusia with its own voice, to reveal a heritage of paths that never make it into guidebooks. This couple of friends also seeks to explore neighboring territories; they want to be hosts in their own land and guests in others’.

With that very purpose, they join Ibai on a new stage of his journey. Cordoba will be the final destination, where a large group of fellow gravel riders awaits, brought together by the spirit of Pachamama. But first, first they want to show him something. With the pride of those who fall in love with every inch of the land they tread, they cannot let Ibai leave Andalusia without witnessing Cadiz’s breathtaking sunset.

Now that he is no longer alone, the rhythm of the ride changes. It is no longer just the steady hum of tires against the ground; now there is laughter, conversation and stops that last longer than planned. Ibai listens to his companions’ stories, understands the land beneath his wheels and learns to love it. He does not arrive empty-handed either: he carries with him the landscape of his homeland. He speaks of the Basque Country and how it shapes his own way of understanding the bicycle. Just like his Orbea, Ibai carries his territory with him, because cycling is inseparable from the place one calls home.

The final stretch of this journey at last leads them to Cordoba. Along this last segment, the trio regains a measure of silence. The body feels the accumulated miles and the mind once again syncs with the rhythm of cadence. Ibai knows the journey is drawing to a close, yet he does not feel that anything is ending. What he has seen so far only makes him want to return. His explorer’s spirit is already planning the next chapter.

In Cordoba, many friends are already waiting. At Pachamama’s call, many new faces have gathered. There is no ceremony, no grand speech. It is a chilly morning and everyone is eager to set off and show their guests around their own paths. Covered in the same dust, Ibai never stops learning that cycling is anything but a solitary sport.